Pinewood Derby Rules

Overall: (Applies to all Race Events)

Eligibility: All registered Pack 38 Tiger, Wolf, Bear, and Webelos Scouts may design, build and enter cars that are eligible to participate in the Scout Division. Parents/guardians and siblings of Cub Scouts registered in Pack 38 may design, build and enter cars that are eligible to participate in the Open Division. The Outlaw Division is open to all eligible parents/guardians, siblings and Pack 38 Scouts. One car per person in each division.

New Work: All cars must be built for the current Pinewood Derby Racing Season. NO REPEATS or REPAINTS.

Inspection: Each car must pass inspection by Race Officials before it may compete. Cars which fail the initial inspection may be adjusted and re-inspected prior to race time. The Inspectors will disqualify any car not meeting the rules of the registered division. Any adult or scout may appeal the findings of the Inspectors to the Race Committee Chair-person. A team of Officials will be assembled and based on majority rule the decision will be upheld or overturned and that decision will become final. After inspection acceptance, only Race Officials will handle the cars. Cars may be reclassified or disqualified if they are determined by the Race Officials to not meet these requirements. Once racing begins, inspection and registration is closed.

Car Repairs: (Without Fault) If, during the race, a wheel falls off or the car becomes otherwise damaged, then the SCOUT may, to the best of his ability perform repairs with the assistance of his adult partner. (With Fault) If a car is damaged due to track fault, or damage caused by another car or person, then the Race Committee Chair, at his/her sole discretion, may allow additional repair assistance to the Cub.

Sportsmanship: Remember, you and your friends are individuals first and racers second. We must always have respect for others. Remember to follow the rules. You will never know if you are really good at doing something unless you follow the rules and compete honestly. Please remember that there are winners and losers in every competition. You accept this when you choose to compete. There may be times when you win and feel happy, and times when you lose and feel unhappy. Being a winner is easy, and losing is sometimes hard. If you win, you must not brag or gloat. If you lose, you must not feel jealous or bitter. To be a good sportsman, you must be able to say, “I did my best” and be satisfied with the results. You must also be able to appreciate and feel happy for someone else when he or she run a good race or build a neat car. Continued unsportsmanlike conduct by any participant or spectator will be grounds for expulsion from the competition and/or the race area.

Scout and Open Division Specifications:

Body: The main body structure must be made of pinewood. Cars that were purchased pre-made may not be used.

If the builder lacks the resources to cut out a car from a stock block of wood, a pre-shaped block may be purchased to be used with the stock BSA Wheels and approved Axles.

Width: not to exceed 2 % (2.75) inches

Length: not to exceed 7 inches

Weight: not to exceed 5.0 ounces

Height: must have clearance under Finishing Gate – not to exceed 6 inches

Clearances:

Center Rail Clearance: must clear center guide rails, typically no less than 1 % (1.75) inches between wheels.

Bottom: no less than 3/8 inches from track surface between center rails. Weights are preferred to be inset in the body or on top of the car to aid in a safe stop at the end of the track and to avoid scraping the center rail down the curved section.

Aesthetics: The car design may be enhanced by the addition of other stable materials such as plastic or metal. Any additions must be firmly attached and meet Car Size Requirements.

Prohibited Items: The following items are PROHIBITED: Springs, starting devices or propellants, electronic or lighting devices that interfere with the race electronics, liquids, wet paint, oil, sticky substances, or powders of any kind (other than axle lubrication), glass or excessively fragile parts, bearings, bushings, washers, sleeves, hubcaps or inserts attached to or in contact with the axle or wheels, loose objects on car, magnets.

Wheels:

Only Official BSA wheels are allowed – All lettering/numbering, both inside and outside, must remain complete and be visible. The fluting and other BSA markings on the outside wheel area must remain visible. Outer wheel surfaces may be lightly sanded, shaved, or polished to remove surface imperfections and mold casting burrs, but must not be reshaped in any way in an attempt to lighten the wheel, minimize tread contact or alter aerodynamics. You may add material such as glue, fingernail polish, or tape, to the inside of the wheel to aid in balancing of the wheel, but no material may be removed from the inside surfaces.

Official BSA Colored wheels are allowed.

Wheel Bore treatment is allowed including polishing and/or tapping. Wheel bores may not be filled and re-drilled to alter bore diameter or to achieve better fit with the axle.

There must be at least four wheels on the car, however, it is not required that all four wheels make contact with the track surface. Each wheel must be mounted on an axle, on the outside of the car, in an approximate vertical position. Each wheel must be attached directly to the wood car body by an axle and spin freely.

The two rear wheels and the two front wheels must be positioned directly across the body from each another. Staggered wheelbases are not allowed.

No part of the car or any attachment to the car may be capable of coming into contact with the track other than the wheels.

The following wheel modifications are NOT allowed
- No rounding of the wheel treads – they must remain flat and parallel with the axle bore.
- No Grooving, H-cutting, V-cutting, Crowning, Tapering or Dishing.
- No altering the wheel profile.
- No Drilling the sidewalls

Please note: There are aftermarket modified wheels that are LIGHTENED. This is usually done by turning the wheels on a lathe and removing material from the inside of the wheel. These wheels are NOT allowed and ARE EASILY RECOGNIZED at inspection. Cars with these wheels will not be permitted to race.

Wheelbase: Can be extended. The standard wheelbase is 4 3/8 (4.375) inches from center of front axie to center of the back axle. Any wheelbase can be used as long as no part of the wheels extend past the end of the car.

Axles:

BSA Nail type axles are required. Axels may NOT be mechanically altered to reduced weight or diameter. They may, however, be smoothed and polished if desired (see speed tips). Axles must be mounted into the wood sections of car.

Drilled holes or slots in the body of the car may be used. Over-application of lubricant which results in excessive shedding onto the track is not allowed.

Lubricants: Only dry lubricants such as powdered graphite or powdered Teflon (“white lube”) will be allowed for lubricating the wheels. Oils and sprays are prohibited. Lubricants may not be applied so heavily that they foul the track. All lubrication applications must be completed prior to the car being impounded after passing pre-race inspection and registration. Please note – NO GRAPHITE IS TO BE BROUGHT INTO THE RACE AREA, due to the mess it makes. A lubrication area will be provided. Please apply graphite and shake off excess before entering the race area.

Outlaw Division Specifications:

The purpose of the Outlaw Class Race event is to have a little fun and to allow others to participate in the Pinewood Derby. The Outlaw Class race will be held immediately after the preliminary Open heat races.

Technical standards: Racecars may be no longer than 7 inches and no wider than 2 3/4 (2.75) inches, as determined by the official gages during the inspection and registration. Underside clearance of at least 3/8 (0.375) inches and inside wheel-to-wheel clearance of at least 1 % (1.75) inches is required, so that the car will run on the racetrack. Adequate clearance is the responsibility of the racecar builder. Have fun and use your imagination. Almost anything goes in this event.

Other Rules: THERE IS A 12.0 OZ. WEIGHT LIMIT IN THE OUTLAW CLASS AS LONG AS THE WEIGHT IS DEEMED TO NOT BE POTENTIALLY DAMAGING TO THE TRACK.

The Car: You may NOT use your son’s current car for this race.

Inspection: Cars will be inspected and registered just prior to the Scouts race in the same window of inspections.

Pack 38 PWD Speed Tips

Here is a collection of basic speed tips that can be implemented under the Pack 38 guidelines. REMEMBER: always use eye protection when working on your car.

Wheels

Smooth the tread – This is accomplished by placing the wheel in a drill using a wheel mandrel (a tool sold at hobby stores), and then lightly sanding the tread with fine (600+) grit sandpaper. To make sure that the tread is evenly sanded, attach the sandpaper to a small flat piece of wood or metal, and then apply the sandpaper to the tread. Continue sanding for about 10 seconds on each wheel, making sure that the sanding time is the same for all wheels.

DO NOT OVER SAND OR ALTER THE WHEEL AS DESCRIBED IN RULES ABOVE.

Axles

Remove the burr by the nail head (if present) – Place each axle in a drill and use a small file to remove the burr.

Use fine sandpaper to smooth any file marks.

Polish the axles – Place an axle in a drill, apply some polishing compound (car polish, metal polish, jeweler’s rouge, etc.) to a rag, and polish the axles until shiny.

Body

Maximum weight – Make sure your car weighs the maximum allowable amount (normally 5 ounces).

Location of weight – Place the added weight such that the center of gravity of the car is ~1″ in front of the rear axle.

Maximum length – Make sure your car measures the full length (7 inches).

Aerodynamics – Avoid the use of streamers, flags, or any other material that could catch air.

Final Steps

Attach the wheels/axles to the car after all bodywork is complete. This includes drilling, cutting, shaping, sanding, painting, weighting, and decorating.

Wheel clearance – The clearance between the wheel hubs and the sides of the car should between 1/16 and 1/32 inch.

Wheel alignment – Attach a piece of masking tape (3 to 4 feet long) to a smooth, flat surface. Use a straightedge to make sure the tape is straight. Roll the car on the surface using the tape as a guide. The car should be able to roll 3 feet without veering off course. If the car turns within that distance, a slight correction can be made by swapping wheels from side to side or front to back. If a larger correction is needed, then the front axle for a wheel that is touching the ground can be bent slightly, and then rotated until the car rolls straight.

Gluing axles – After aligning the wheels, glue the axles in place using a small amount of white glue or epoxy. Apply the glue to the axles at least 24 hours before the weigh-in. Do not use a thin glue such as super glue.

Storage – After completing the car, store the car in a safe place (such as a padded shoe box). Do not play with the car, or role it around the car could be damaged.

Additional information on the Race Operations is available on request